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This coffee is super cool and pretty unique for us. It’s a 72-hour natural anaerobic lactic fermentation. This is a tough process to do right and Gilberto (well, actually, Edgar) has done an amazing job. The process, when done right, results in highlighting some of the juiciness of the coffee and results in an effervescence reminiscent of champagne. If you want to know more about Gilberto, Edgar and this coffee, then keep on reading!
A bit about the farm, but let me warn you, the next little bit is a bit boring.
Finca Ponderosa is located in a relatively unknown growing region in Panama: Cordillera. This region gets more rainwater than the rest of Panama’s coffee regions and it’s one of the reasons the coffees that come out of this region are turning heads. Although producing coffee in rainy regions is very challenging, the quality of the coffee that comes from here is impressive. Set in the middle of the mountains and a native rainforest that covers about 40% of the property, the farm has a great variety of flora and fauna. The ever-changing climate where the rain, sun and changing temperature create great growing conditions.
OK, back to Gilberto. In 2014, Gilberto Cardoze acquired Finca Ponderosa - originally as a cattle farm, but being so close to the mountains and on the slopes of the volcano, he soon realized he was sitting on a golden coffee growing ticket. So, Gilberto partnered with Ratibor Hartmann and began the process of converting Ponderosa into a coffee farm. Gilberto and Ratibor went on to plant many varieties on the farm, including Geisha, Bourbon, Pacamara and Moka. This is their fifth year of production and the coffees really impressed me. Gilberto’s entrepreneurial spirit and Ratibor’s innovation have allowed Ponderosa to quickly establish itself as a farm to be reckoned with. In addition to the great growing conditions and varieties planted, Gilberto has invested in stainless tanks for the temperature controlled fermentations.
Gilberto is a successful businessman who lives mostly in Panama City and visits the farm when time permits. This is where Edgar Gutierrez comes in. Edgar looks after the farm and is super passionate about processing. I’ve hung out with him lots, roasted with him, visited their fermentation tanks, and cupped with him and his attention to detail is the key to ponderosa’s success.
This lot was fermented in anaerobic conditions for three days before being dried on raised beds. The profile is effervescent, wild and exotic, yet elegant and very clean. It quickly stood out on the cupping table as a coffee filled with tropical fruits and an unforgettable juiciness. When I cupped it, I thought it would make an awesome espresso, and I wasn’t wrong - this is a gem.
- Sebastian
